Pond Liner Installation Guideline - Basic Tips

POND PLANNING AND CONSTRUCTION DETAILS - Basic tips
The installation of any pond liner should be a fairly straightforward procedure provided these simple rules are followed:


 Planning:
This is the most important part of pond building and one that can save a lot of  time, effort and expense, so don’t rush it.
Decide where the pond is to be sited, ideally a level site that receives at least half-a-days sunlight and is not crossed by buried pipes or cables. Also check the availability of electricity and the cost of running pumps, lights etc.
The only limit to the size of the liner is how much you can afford. The use of a length of rope or garden hose laid out in the proposed shape of your pond should help you decide what is right for your site.
The depth of the pond should be a minimum of 18” and generally speaking the deeper, the better as this helps maintain a more stable temperature and avoids complete freezing in winter.
 

Excavation:

When digging the pond try to ensure a slope of 15 degrees (3” in for every 9” down) on all sides and incorporate shelves at different depths to accommodate the needs of various aquatic plants.
Make sure the top of the pond is level, that all sharp objects are removed and that there are no roots that may grow and penetrate the liner.  It is a good idea to line the pond with FLP pond liner underlay (available from your retailer) as an added precaution against damage to the liner.
 

Liner Installation: Now that the excavation is finished the liner can be draped evenly over the hole and allowed to settle into the contours of the pond, keeping an even overlap on all sides.
 The next step is to push the liner roughly into place and check that there is sufficient overlap on all sides at the top of the pond.
 

Now begin to fill the pond and as the weight of water pushes the liner into the pond, ease out any small wrinkles and neatly pleat any larger folds. When the pond is full, leave for at least 48 hours before finishing around the top edges (this is to ensure that the liner has not been damaged during installation). 

The pond may now be finished off in the manner chosen.  A few of the more popular methods of edging have been illustrated below, but if cement is used, any that will come into contact with the water must be neutralised with an appropriate sealant. (Ask your aquatic dealer for the information). Ensure that paving slabs overlay the pond by at least 2” to hide and protect the edge of the liner. 

General:Always keep the water level right up to the top. This will require topping up in the summer as evaporation can reduce levels by several inches in a very short time. 

A liner that is exposed to the elements will have a shorter life and be more prone to mechanical damage. Take care when cleaning the pond, or retrieving objects that have dropped into it, that you avoid puncturing the liner by the use of sharp implements (garden fork, rakes, sticks etc).
 

Finishing:

Here a firm edge has been made behind the liner at the top to give a firm, level edge for the paving slab. Make sure any gaps between the bricks are packed with sand. This method will hide the top of the liner, but make sure that the bricks used are suitable for the purpose. All mortar must be sealed. 

To achieve a gravel ‘beach’ type area, a small ridge should be made below the water level to stop the gravel from rolling to the bottom of the pond. This system is ideal for wildlife ponds giving easy entry and exit to the water, while protecting the liner from damage. Again a layer of FLP pond liner underlay between the gravel and liner is required. A rockery that goes right into the water can be achieved by this method.  There must be adequate protection under the rock to avoid damage to the liner, a layer of FLP protective underlay between rocks and liner is recommended

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